Exploring Vega Sicilia’s Iconic Wines: An Exclusive Tasting Experience with Pablo Alvarez
Join me for an exclusive glimpse into the world of Vega Sicilia, one of Spain’s most iconic wineries, as I share my experience meeting with Pablo Alvarez, CEO of Tempos Vega-Sicilia at Hawksmoor NYC.
From the vibrant Oremus dry Furmints to the acclaimed Vega-Sicilia Unico 2014, explore unique tasting notes, ideal pairings, and the visionary leadership that defines this prestigious estate. Experience the magic of wine through the eyes of a sommelier who appreciated every moment of this unforgettable journey.
As a sommelier, wine writer and wine educator, I've had the privilege of tasting some of the world's finest wines. However, few experiences compare to a winemaker lunch at Hawksmoor in New York City I attended back in April.
Being able to meet Pablo Alvarez, the CEO of Tempos Vega Sicilia, in person and taste their wines: ’21 Oremus Furmint Mandolas, ‘20 Oremus Furmint Petras, ‘19 & ’20 Macan Rioja, ‘19 Vega-Sicilia Valbuena 5° and ’14 Unico , and ’22 Oremus Toakji Late Harvest, and ‘17 Oremus Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, was an incredible and rare opportunity to delve into the world of Vega Sicilia through the eyes of Pablo who has shaped the estate’s modern legacy.
The lineup of this exquisite tasting. Photo Credit: Joyce Lin
The Legacy of Vega Sicilia: 150 Years of Excellence
Vega Sicilia, with a remarkable history of 150 years, stands as a testament to Spain's winemaking excellence. Founded in 1864, this legendary estate in Ribera del Duero has long been synonymous with top-quality Spanish wine. However, it was in 1982 that a new chapter began for Vega Sicilia, one that would shape its modern identity and global reputation.
That year, the Alvarez family acquired the estate, marking the start of a transformative era. Pablo Alvarez, who would become the driving force behind Vega Sicilia's continued success, initially held various positions at Eulen before taking the leadership role at the winery. Under his guidance, Vega Sicilia not only maintained its prestigious reputation but also expanded its horizons.
Pablo Alvarez's approach to winemaking is deeply rooted in respect for tradition while embracing innovation. He has played a vital role in preserving the unique character of Vega Sicilia wines, enhancing their quality and consistency. His philosophy of patience and perfection is evident in the estate's flagship wines, which are often aged for extended periods before release.
In 2022, Pablo Alvarez celebrated the 40th anniversary of his family's ownership of Vega Sicilia, a milestone that speaks volumes about their commitment and success.
Pablo Alvarez: The Visionary Behind Vega Sicilia's Modern Empire
Under Pablo Alvarez's visionary leadership, Vega Sicilia has expanded beyond its original Ribera del Duero roots, creating a true empire of fine wines across various Spanish regions and even beyond the country's borders.
Vega Sicilia Expanded Beyond Ribera del Duero
Vega Sicilia's ambitious venture into the legendary Tokaj region of Hungary was even more remarkable. The acquisition of Oremus in 1993 represented a bold step into the world of sweet wines. Known today as Tokaj-Oremus, it produces a variety of wines that highlight the unique characteristics of the Furmint grape and the region's exceptional terroir. From dry Furmint wines like Mandolás to the delectably sweet Tokaji Aszú, Oremus has established itself as a benchmark for quality in this historic wine region.
Another significant expansion came in 2004 when Vega Sicilia ventured into the prestigious Rioja region. In a joint venture with Compagnie Vinicole Baron Edmond de Rothschild, they established Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia. This collaboration gave birth to two exceptional wines: Macán and Macán Clásico. These wines represent a harmonious blend of Rioja's terroir and the winemaking expertise of both houses. Macán, the flagship wine, embodies elegance, depth, and freshness, while Macán Clásico offers a more approachable expression deeply rooted in its territory.
What sets the Vega Sicilia empire apart is not just its geographical diversity but the consistent philosophy applied across all its ventures. Whether in Ribera del Duero, Rioja, or Tokaj, the focus remains on expressing the unique terroir of each region while maintaining the highest quality standards. Pablo Alvarez's approach of combining respect for tradition with openness to innovation is evident in each estate.
Winemaking at each domaine is tailored to local conditions and grape varieties, yet there is a common thread of meticulous attention to detail, patience in aging, and a relentless pursuit of excellence. This approach has enabled Vega Sicilia to produce wines that are not only true to their origins but also carry the unmistakable mark of quality associated with Vega Sicilia’s name.
Through these expansions, Pablo Alvarez has transformed Vega Sicilia from a single, iconic estate into a global symbol of fine wine, highlighting the diverse potential of Spanish winemaking while also honoring the rich traditions of the regions beyond.
Tasting Vega Sicilia’s Iconic Wines: A Deep Dive into Excellence
Oremus Furmint: A Hungarian Connection
Raw Oysters with Oremus Furmint Mandolás ‘21 and Petracs ‘20
Our tasting journey began with two exceptional dry furmints from Oremus, paired exquisitely with fresh oysters. The opening sets the stage for what would be an unforgettable vinous experience.
The Mandolás 2021 showcased the youthful and innovative nature of Tokaj. This dry Furmint displayed a brilliant straw color in the glass. On the nose, it shows an enticing bouquet of citrus fruits, especially lemon and grapefruit, intertwined with delicate white floral notes and a hint of white peach. The palate offered a delightful surprise, with crisp acidity that perfectly balanced the wine's full body. Flavors of ripe apple, pear, and a touch of almond emerged, complemented by a subtle mineral undertone that highlighted the unique terroir of Tokaj. The finish was long and refreshing, making it an ideal companion to the briny oysters.
Following the Mandolás, we tasted the Petrács 2020, a wine that exemplifies the complexity of dry Furmint. This single-vineyard wine originates from one of Oremus' top sites, and it certainly showed in the glass. The color was a deeper yellow, suggesting the wine's concentration. The nose was initially restrained but opened beautifully to reveal layers of ripe stone fruits, honey, and an intriguing note of smoky minerality. On the palate, the wine was full-bodied and intense, with a creamy texture balanced by vibrant acidity. Flavors of apricot, quince, and lemon curd were highlighted by a distinct chalky minerality and a hint of oak spice from its time in the barrel. The finish was remarkably long and layered, evolving in the glass with every sip.
This was my first time trying fresh oysters with Furmint, and I love it. The wine's acidity and mineral notes perfectly complement the delicate brininess of the oysters.
Macán Rioja: The Rothschild-Vega Sicilia Collaboration
As we moved from the delicate oysters to more robust fare, Pablo Alvarez guided us through the Macán wines, showcasing Vega Sicilia's venture into the renowned Rioja region. These wines, born from the collaboration between Vega Sicilia and Rothschild, perfectly complemented with the Ash-baked beet salad.
The Macán Clásico 2020 served as an excellent introduction to the Macán line. This wine, made primarily from Tempranillo grapes, is a beautiful ruby color with purple highlights. The nose is expressive and youthful, offering aromas of ripe red fruits, particularly cherries and raspberries, intertwined with subtle notes of vanilla and a hint of Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with silky tannins, showcasing the freshness and fruitiness of Macán Clásico. The finish was long and elegant, featuring a pleasant touch of oak that didn't overpower the fruit. This wine paired harmoniously with the smoked beet salad, as the fruit's earthy tone and lively acidity complemented the beets' earthiness.
Ash-Baked Beet Salad by Hawksmoor
The flagship Macán 2019 followed, displaying a deep garnet color; this wine immediately commanded attention. The nose was complex and intense, revealing layers of dark fruits like blackberries and plums, complemented by notes of tobacco, dark chocolate, and a subtle hint of vanilla from oak aging. On the palate, the wine was full-bodied and powerful yet elegant. The tannins were firm but well-integrated, promising excellent aging potential. Flavors of ripe black cherries, cassis, and blackberries were interwoven with savory leather and spice notes. The wine's structure and depth paired exceptionally well with the beets. A truly surprising pairing.
Both Macán wines showcased the unique terroir of Rioja while bearing the unmistakable mark of Vega Sicilia's winemaking philosophy. Pablo Alvarez explained how they aim to create Rioja wines that are both true to their origin and reflective of Vega Sicilia's commitment to excellence. The precision in winemaking was evident, with each wine displaying a perfect balance between fruit, acidity, and oak influence.
Valbuena 5° and Unico: The Crown Jewels of Ribera del Duero
The pinnacle of our tasting experience arrived with Vega Sicilia's flagship wines: Valbuena 5 2019 and Unico 2014. These wines, representing the epitome of Spanish winemaking, were a fitting accompaniment to our main course: Charcol-grilled Rump.
The Valbuena 5° 2019, with primarily Tempranillo with a 3% dash of Merlot from the Vega Sicilia estate, showcased the younger, more approachable side of Vega Sicilia. This wine is aged for five years before its release (which is why it has the "5" in its name). The nose was incredibly complex, offering a bouquet of ripe blackberries and black cherries, intertwined with notes of vanilla, tobacco, and subtle hints of dried herbs. On the palate, the wine was full-bodied yet remarkably elegant, with silky tannins and a perfect balance of fruit, acidity, and oak influence. The finish was impressively long, with layers of flavor unfolding slowly, revealing the wine's depth and complexity.
The legendary Unico 2014 was the crown jewel of our tasting. This wine, a blend of 94% Tinto Fino and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, is produced only in exceptional years and is aged for at least ten years before release, living up to its reputation as one of the world’s greatest wines. The color was an intense, almost opaque garnet with slight brick hues at the rim, hinting at its development. The nose was extraordinary, displaying a profound and complex array of aromas. Ripe dark fruits, particularly blackcurrants and cherries, were layered with notes of cigar box, leather, truffle, and a subtle hint of balsamic. The palate was balanced with complexity. Full-bodied and powerful, yet with an ethereal elegance. The tannins were remarkably refined, providing structure without any harshness. The finish is incredibly long, evolving in the glass and revealing new nuances with each sip.
Pablo Alvarez shared insights into the detailed process behind these wines, from carefully selecting the grapes to the long aging in both oak barrels and bottles. He emphasized the significance of patience in crafting these wines, regardless of market pressures.
Charcoal-Grilled Rump
The two reds, paired gorgeously with our perfectly cooked rump, elevated the dining experience to a new height. The Valbuena 5° 2019 complemented the meat beautifully, while the Unico 2014 provided a transcendent experience, its complexity and depth matching the most flavorful bites of the dish.
Tasting these wines side by side provided a unique perspective on Vega Sicilia's style and the evolution of their wines over time. It was a one-of-a-kind opportunity to experience firsthand why these wines are considered among the finest in the world and why Vega Sicilia holds such a revered place in the pantheon of great wine estates.
Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest & Aszú 5 Puttonyos: Hungarian’s Liquid Treasure
Oremus Tokaji with Pineapple Financier
Our extraordinary lunch concluded on a sweet note with two exceptional dessert wines from Oremus, paired seamlessly with an upside-down pineapple cake. These wines showcased the magic of Tokaj's unique terroir and the Aszú winemaking tradition.
Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest 2022
The Tokaji Late Harvest 2022 served as a delightful introduction to the sweet wines of Tokaj. This wine displayed a beautiful medium straw color with golden highlights. The nose was incredibly aromatic, offering a bouquet reminiscent of lemon meringue pie, coupled with notes of ripe apricots, honey, and delicate white flowers. On the palate, the wine was sweet yet perfectly balanced by a vibrant acidity. Flavors of candied citrus peel, apricot preserves, and a hint of ginger were complemented by a subtle minerality. The texture was silky and the finish long, leaving a pleasant, refreshing sensation that invited another sip.
Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2017
The grand finale of our tasting was the Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2017, a wine that truly exemplifies the glory of Tokaj. The wine is predominately made of Furmint, accompanied by Harslevelu, Zeta, and Sargamuskotalu. Each grape uniquely contributes freshness, structure, floral note,s and acidity. The color was a deep gold, almost amber, hinting at its concentration and complexity. The nose was intensely aromatic and multi-layered, offering a symphony of dried apricots, orange marmalade, honey, and exotic spices, with subtle notes of botrytis adding depth and complexity. On the palate, the wine was unctuously sweet yet impeccably balanced by a razor-sharp acidity. Dried apricots and figs, were complemented by notes of caramel, vanilla, and a touch of saffron. The wine's texture was smooth and viscous, coating the palate luxuriously. The finish was remarkably long with multi-layers.
The decadent and sweet upside-down pineapple cake
The pairing with the upside-down pineapple cake was a match made in heaven. The Late Harvest wine complemented the fruit's natural sweetness, while its acidity balances the cake's richness. The Aszú, boasting a richer sweetness and complexity, raised the dessert to new heights, creating a harmonious blend of flavors and textures.
As the last drops of the exquisite Tokaji Aszú lingered on my palate, I couldn't help but reflect on the extraordinary experience I had just been part of. Meeting Pablo Alvarez, the visionary behind Vega Sicilia's modern success, was a privilege that few wine enthusiasts enjoy.
During lunch, Alvarez's passion for winemaking and his deep respect for terroir shone through in every pour and story he shared. His dedication to quality, no matter the region or type of wine, was truly inspiring. From the crisp, dry Furmints of Tokaj to the bold Ribera del Duero and Rioja, and finally to the luscious, sweet wines of Tokaj, each bottle represented Vega Sicilia's commitment to excellence.
Photo with Pablo Alvarez
Tasting these wines with Alvarez was an experience I will cherish for years. It provided a rare glimpse into the philosophy and passion that fuel one of the world's most iconic wine producers. As I left Hawksmoor that afternoon, I felt not just satisfied by the excellent food and wine, but truly enriched by the experience.
This lunch reaffirmed my belief in the magic of wine—its ability to tell stories, connect us with places and people, and create moments of pure joy. In the world of wine, few stories are as compelling as that of Vega Sicilia under the stewardship of Pablo Alvarez.
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Great Wines of Italy New York 2022 － 遇見紐約＋酒意思SIP WITH JOYCE 特別報導
睽違三年的Great Wines of Italy, 终于在2022年的9月8日在紐約如期举行。遇見紐約與酒意思SIP WITH JOYCE 連袂合作，為您採訪報導美國最大最頂級的義大利葡萄酒品鑒會。
So pleased to have the opportunity to partner with 遇見紐約 and give you a quick tour of Great Wines of Italy New York 2022, the biggest premium Italian wine event in the United States hosted by James Suckling.
Mr. James Suckling expresses his excitement about the event returning to US after 3 years due to covid during our interview.
We also talked to Mr. Werner Waldboth with Abbazia di Novacella, one of the oldest Italian wineries in Alto Adige region and Mr. Cesare Benvenuto with Pio Cesare, a well-known Barolo producer in Alba, Piedmont.
Thanks Emma, the founder of 遇見紐約 for this wonderful opportunity. It’s been my pleasure to work with you and your team.
睽違三年的 Great Wines of Italy 终于在2022年的9月8日在紐約如期举行。遇見紐約 與 酒意思SIP WITH JOYCE 連袂合作，為您採訪報導美國最大最頂級的義大利葡萄酒品鑒會。
我們采訪了國際名葡萄酒評論家 James Suckling 先生，同時也是Great Wines of Italy的主辦人。James Suckling 先生開心地表示：「這個活動能再度回到紐約，帶著180家頂級意大利葡萄酒酒莊参展，與葡萄酒愛好者們見面，實在是太棒了！」
另外，我們也專訪了來自義大利最北邊的Alto Adige 產區的 Abbazia di Novacella 酒莊及來自Piedmont 產區以Barolo而享譽盛名的 Pio Cesare 酒莊。
非常感謝「遇見紐約」的創辦人 Emma 的邀請，有機會能參與 Great Wines of Italy 報導。對葡萄酒有興趣的朋友們，這個一年一度的品酒盛宴絕對是品嚐頂級義大利葡萄酒的絕佳機會。
歡迎追蹤我的IG ＠joyce_foodnwine
Follow my Instagram account: @joyce_foodnwine for more food and wine pairing ideas!
在我的IG裡精選了各式各樣的餐酒搭配，有葡萄酒餐搭，清酒、威士忌及雞尾酒餐搭任你挑選。
無論是搭配地道的台灣小吃、泰國菜、日本料理、韓國料理、甚至印度料理，
還有大家所熟知的歐美料理，通通都可以在我的IG裡找到喔！
另外，我還會不定期分享葡萄酒品飲心得，葡萄酒品飲課程、葡萄酒優惠，及業界最新最夯的葡萄酒新知
不想錯過任何消息的朋友們一定要追蹤起來！！！
