Hakka Salted Pork, Please Meet Riesling【客家鹹豬肉與麗斯玲的相遇
Food：
Hakka Salted Pork with Hakka Kumquat Marmalade
Wine of my choice：
Knebel Rötten Riesling Kabinett Germany 🇩🇪 2016
Since the ancient times, there are noticeable similarities in the evolution of the human food culture between eastern and western societies. Salt is the one of the most commonly used mineral and an essential nutrient to human health. It is used in many cuisines around the world not only to accentuate the flavors of the ingredients, it is also used to preserve food. Hakka people in Taiwan are masters of food preservation with salt. Today, l would like to introduce to you a Hakka dish that is very easy to prepare yet delicious, and pairing this dish with wine. It is Hakka Salted Pork. First of all, let’s take a look at the history of Hakka people in Taiwan and the background of this dish.
Most of the Hakka people in Taiwan immigrated from Fujian and Guangdong after the 1690s. Hakka cuisine and culture have played an important role in the history of Taiwan. Hakka people account for nearly 20% of Taiwan’s total population. They are known for their prudent and hardworking characters. Most of the Hakka cuisine is a reflection of these culture traits and the Hakka Salted Pork is a great example.
At times, food and materials were scarce, and only during holidays, people can afford to buy meat for their families. In order to prolong the shelf life, they preserve the meat with salt. This method is very similar to making Jamón in Spain. Hakka Salted Pork can be enjoyed in many different ways, boiled, stewed or stir-fried with vegetables, just to name a few.
Hakka Salted Pork made by James / James 為我們做的客家鹹豬肉
We are very happy that my very good friend, James, was able to make Hakka Salted Pork for this post. James is from Taoyuan, Taiwan, and grew up with Hakka heritage. He has a Doctor’s degree in Educational Psychology and is currently working as a researcher at a science museum in New York City. He loves to cook and is a true foodie. James was the perfect person to make Hakka Salted Pork for us.
James also showed us the simplest way to eat Hakka Salted Pork: boiled. The boiled Hakka Salted Pork can be dipped in different sauces. The most traditional way to enjoy the boiled pork is to dip it in Hakka Kumquat Marmalade. You can also add in a little bit soy sauce as well.
＊For those who are interested in how to make Hakka Salted Pork, please visit 酒意思SIP WITH JOYCE’s YouTube channel and watch the video.
So, what kind of wine can pair with boiled Hakka Salted Pork dipped in Hakka Kumquat Marmalade? First, let’s analyze the dominant flavors of the dish. There are two key elements of the dish, Salted Pork and the Kumquat Marmalade. The pork is salty and garlicky, and the Kumquat Marmalade is savory, citrusy with sweetness hidden in the back.
Therefore, high acidity, full bodied whites with notes of orange peel, tangerine, stone fruit and tropical fruit are great choices, such as, Falanghina, Greco di Tufo, and Alsatian Pinot Gris. In addition, off-dry Riesling is a wonderful option.
If you’d prefer red wine, light to medium bodied reds with silky tannins and great acidity are ideal, like Pinot Noir, Rioja Crianza, and Rhone-Style Red Blends. These wines carry a good amount of fruit but won’t overpower the dish.
Among all the white wine I mentioned above, I choose this off-dry Riesling from Mosel, Germany made by Knebel to pair with Hakka Salted Pork. Before we get into the pairing, let’s talk about Mosel for a second.
Falanghina, Greco di Tufo, and Off-Dry Riesling / 法蘭吉娜、格雷克迪徒彿，及半甘型的麗斯玲
Wine Region: Mosel
Mosel is one of the 13 Weinbaugebietes (wine regions) in Germany for quality wines. Only accounting for the 3rd largest wine region in terms of volume in Germany, Mosel has its fame from producing world classic Riesling.
Mosel wine region is named after river Mosel, which is the second largest tributary of river Rhine. Saar and Ruwer are the tributaries in the upstream of Mosel that are also considered part of the wine region.
The Mosel is well-known for its white wine, especially Riesling. There are more and more Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) vines that have been planted in Mosel in the past 20 years and has gained some interests among the world.
What makes Mosel wine region distinctive is that it has one of the steepest vineyards in the world and the unique schist soil. The climate affection from the Mosel river has to be taken into consideration as well. Because of all these reasons, the Riesling grown in Mosel is very different from the Riesling grown in Rheingau, Rheinhessen and Phalz. Mosel Riesling is typically more floral with green fruits flavors; lighter bodied with higher acidity and lower alcohol percentage.
The Grape: Riesling
Riesling, an aromatic white grape variety, originated from Rhine region in Germany. There are several references that can be dated back to the 15th century.
Riesling displays aromas and flavors of white blossoms, citrus, green fruits, and stone fruits with high acidity as its main characters. Cool climate Riesling usually carries more green fruits and floral notes. Riesling from warmer climates is often richer in body and flavors with citrus, stone fruits, and tropical fruits notes.
Riesling is not only a late-ripening grape variety but cold weather – resistant. Grapes can be left on the vines after the harvest season without reducing its acidity. With this advantage, it is perfect for making wines in a range of sweetness levels. The most celebrated botrytised dessert wine and ice wine are mainly made from Riesling.
In addition, Riesling is one of the long-lived white wine in the world. Riesling can develop flavors of honey and toast with bottle age but maintains a high level of acidity. Petrol and flint can also be found in aged Riesling. German Riesling is very versatile. It can be made into a wide range style of wine from dry to dessert wine. If you haven’t had the chance to try Riesling from Germany before, don’t wait.
The Producer: Knebel
The Knebel family has been growing grapes in lower Mosel, Germany since 1642. Matthias Knebel is the successor who is in charge of the family estate. The Knebel family only focuses on one grape variety and that is Riesling. Matthias’s objective is to make Mosel Riesling with fine elegance and powerful expression.
Here is Matthias’s winemaking philosophy: “We see ourselves as accompanists to our wines. Accompanying an idea, an objective, a concept of style. We want every vineyard, every site, each vintage, and even each cask to be allowed to show its own character, to observe its development.” It is actually very similar to the Taoism, one of the philosophical traditions of Chinese origin, which emphasizes on harmony and naturalness.
James is cutting the Hakka Salted Pork into slices/James 正在切客家鹹豬肉
This Knebel Knebel Rötten Riesling is made with 100% Riesling from single vineyard Rötten, located in one of the steepest vineyards in Mosel wine region. Vineyard management and harvest are done manually. It’s very labor intensive and requires lots of patience. This Riesling is fermented with native yeast and aged in stainless steel tank in order to showcase the nuance of the terroir.
This Riesling has 36.9 g/Ｌresidual sugar. On the palate, it’s sweet with honey, dried apricot, yellow peach and candied lemon.
The wine displays flint and petrol on the nose with beautiful jasmine and apple blossom notes. The body is lean with clean and sharp mouthfeel. The high acidity is the key component that keeps this Riesling lively and full of energy.
This Riesling not only complements the saltiness of the Hakka Salted Pork but also brings out the sweetness of the pork. The citrus notes from the Hakka Kumquat Marmalade goes very well with the Riesling too. The Riesling has brought out the best part of the Hakka Salted Pork yet amplified the character of itself.
Once again, I‘d like to thank James for joining me in this project. James has opened my mind to Hakka cuisine and I have learned a new way to enjoy Hakka Salted Pork. I can’t thank James enough for his generosity and support. Cheers, James!
Hakka Salted Pork with Hakka Kumquat Marmalade/ James為我們製作的客家鹹豬肉佐客家桔醬
客家鹹豬肉與麗斯玲的相遇
餐點：
客家鹹豬肉佐客家桔醬
餐酒：
Knebel Rötten Riesling Kabinett Germany 🇩🇪 2016
從古至今，從西方文明到中華文化，人類飲食文化的演進總有相似之處。使用鹽來保存食物，就是其中一種。使用鹽來醃製肉類，蔬菜，不僅僅能延長其保存期限，在其中產生的化學作用，往往更能增添食材的美味程度，而台灣的客家人就是非常懂得善用鹽巴來保存食物的一個族群。
今天， Joyce 就要來介紹一道簡單、易做、又好吃的客家菜，並且推薦給各位讀者能與之搭配的葡萄酒。這一道菜就是客家鹹豬肉。首先，我們先來了解一下台灣客家人的歷史及這道菜演變的歷史。
台灣的客家人大多是在1690年代（康熙30年間） 以後從廣東、福建移民過來台灣的。客家飲食及文化在台灣的歷史上佔了很重要的一部分。客家人大約占了台灣總人口數的 20％。客家人生性勤儉，刻苦耐勞，為了維持體力與勞動後流失大量的汗水，進而發展出鹹、香、油的烹調習慣。有許多風味獨具的客家料理，都是由這個出發點衍生而來，而客家鹹豬肉，正是其中一道名菜。
在以前物資較為缺乏的年代，只有逢年過節時，才會一次買很多豬肉，犒賞家人們一年的辛勞。為了可以長時間保存豬肉，客家人就用鹽巴醃製豬肉，延長其保存期限。與中國北方的臘肉，浙江的金華火腿及西方的醃製火腿有異曲同工之妙。用鹽醃製過後的鹹豬肉，不論是蒸、煮、燉湯、切片炒菜，吃起來口感軟Ｑ而不油膩。
這次非常榮幸，能邀請到我的好朋友 James 來參與這個特別的餐酒搭配單元，為我們製做客家鹹豬肉這道菜。James 來自桃園，台灣，是道道地地的客家人。他是一位教育心理學博士，目前在紐約的一間科學博物館擔任研究員的工作。他熱愛美食，平時也喜歡做菜。由他來為我們製作這道客家美食，再適合也不過了。
今天James 為我們示範的是客家鹹豬肉最簡單的吃法 - 川燙。川燙好的肉片可以沾各式醬料來吃，客家傳統的吃法則是沾客家桔醬。可以只沾桔醬或加入醬油一起沾著吃，與鹹豬肉的風味都非常搭。 想要知道James 怎麼製作客家鹹豬肉的朋友，歡迎到酒意思酒意思SIP WITH JOYCE 的YouTube 頻道上觀看喔！
Pinot Noir, Rioja, and Grenache Based Wine/黑皮諾、里歐哈, 及隆河混釀紅酒
那麼水煮客家鹹豬肉沾客家桔醬可以搭配什麼樣的葡萄酒呢？首先，我們先來分析這道菜的最主要風味有什麼？那就是豬肉及金桔醬。
這客家鹹豬肉是鹹香帶點蒜味，而桔醬則是鹹中帶甜，還帶著濃郁的桔皮香。燙過的豬肉片沾著醬吃，不僅中和了豬肉的鹹香與油膩感，還提出了豬肉的鮮甜。鹹豬肉沾了桔醬後則是豐富了這道菜的層次，將簡單烹調的鹹豬肉提升至另外一個境界。我還真的是第一次聽到與吃到客家桔醬，並且與鹹豬肉一起吃。真的要感謝 James 的介紹，讓我開了眼界，原來客家鹹豬肉還有這樣的吃法呢！
由於桔醬濃郁的柑橘香氣、鹹中帶甜，我認為，酸度高，酒體豐腴，帶有柑橘、黃桃、熱帶水果等風味的白酒是很棒的選擇。像是義大利的法蘭吉娜、格雷克迪徒彿及法國阿爾薩斯的灰皮諾，亦或者半甘型的麗斯玲也是上上之選。具有中等以上酸度的白酒是化解肉類油膩感的最佳良伴。
如果您想要搭配紅酒的話，則要選擇酒體輕盈，單寧柔順，酸度集中的紅酒最為適合。像是黑皮諾、里歐哈 Crianza, 及隆河混釀的紅酒都可以。這些酒具有ㄧ定程度的水果風味但不會搶了這道菜的風采。
這次呢，我特地挑了一瓶來自德國摩澤爾產區的半甘型德國麗斯玲來搭配這道客家鹹豬肉。首先讓我們來看看德國摩澤爾產區到底有什麼特別的地方。
產區：摩澤爾（Mosel）
摩澤爾是德國13個法定葡萄酒產區的其中之一，雖然其葡萄酒的產量只佔全德國產區中的第三名，其名聲在國際間卻是最廣為人知的。摩澤爾產區取名自摩澤爾河，它是萊茵河的一大支流。在摩澤爾河上游有薩爾河及烏沃河注入，這兩條河流流經的區域也隸屬於摩澤爾葡萄酒產區內。
此產區以種植白葡萄為主，而其中又以麗斯玲的種植面積最廣。在過去20年間，紅酒黑皮諾（在德國稱為Spätburgunder）的產量在摩澤爾葡萄產區增加了不少，在國際間也獲得不少關注。
摩澤爾產區之所以特別，莫過於摩澤爾河沿岸有著世界著名的陡峭葡萄園及片岩土壤。當然，摩澤爾河對此區氣候的影響也不在話下。也正因為如此，此區所生產的麗斯玲相較於萊茵高（Rheingau），萊茵黑森（Rheinhessen）及 Phalz （普法爾茨）生產的麗斯玲有很大的區別。
摩澤爾產的麗斯玲擁有明顯的花香及較多綠色水果的風味 ; 酒體輕盈，有玉樹臨風之感 ; 酸度激爽而酸脆，酒精濃度相較之下是比較低的。
Knebel Rötten Riesling Kabinett
葡萄品種：麗斯玲（Riesling）
麗斯玲是源自於德國萊茵河谷產區的芳香型白葡萄品種，相傳在15世紀時就有歷史記載該葡萄品種紀錄。
麗斯玲聞起來花香四溢，果味濃郁，其激爽的酸度是它很重要的特色之一。在寒冷氣候下生長的麗斯玲大多帶有綠色水果的香氣，通常花香也較為明顯。種植在氣候相對溫暖的麗斯玲，酒體及風味則顯得濃郁許多 ; 柑橘、杏桃、熱帶水果等等的風味大多出現在這些麗斯玲裡。
麗斯玲不僅耐寒，也是屬於晚熟型的葡萄品種。即便過了收成期，讓葡萄繼續留在葡萄樹上熟成，其酸度也不減，因此非常適合做成各種甜度的甜酒。
德國非常有名的貴腐酒，冰酒等等大多都是使用麗斯玲釀造的。此外，麗斯玲是世界上極具陳年潛力的白葡萄酒之一。陳年的麗斯玲大多會有蜂蜜、烤麵包的香氣，卻仍保有爽脆的酸度。另外，汽油味、煙硝味等的礦物感，也是陳年麗斯玲專有的特色。德國麗斯玲風格多變，從不甜的甘型葡萄酒到甜如蜂蜜般的甜酒都有，千變萬化，千姿百媚。
酒莊：Knebel
自1642年起，Knebel 家族便在摩澤爾河河谷的下游開始種植葡萄。目前是由 Matthias Knebel 掌管其家族的釀酒事業。Knebel 酒莊只專注於釀造一種葡萄品種：麗斯玲。Matthias 企圖釀造最能體現摩澤爾麗斯玲的高雅及強而有力的表現力。Matthias 說：「我們之於我們釀的酒，就像是站在一個伴隨、隨同的角度上來看。我們陪著每一款酒形塑屬於他們自己的風格。我們希望每一個葡萄園，每一個地塊，每一個年份，甚至每一個釀造桶都能展現其獨特性。我們能做的就靜靜地觀察他們各自的變化。」這樣的釀酒哲學是不是很有道家順其自然的理念在？
James is cutting the Hakka Salted Pork into slices/James 正在切客家鹹豬肉
這瓶 Knebel Rötten Riesling 是使用100% 來自 Rötten 葡萄園的麗斯玲釀造的。Rötten 葡萄園是摩澤爾產區中坡度最陡峭的葡萄園之一。耕種及採收都以人工進行，過程相當的辛苦。
這瓶麗斯玲是用自然酵母在鋼桶裡進行發酵，並且在鋼桶裡熟成。不經過木桶熟成的原因是希望將葡萄裡帶有的風土以最自然的方式呈現出來，不給予過多的修飾。
這瓶麗斯玲含有36.9 g/Ｌ的殘糖量，飲來甜滋滋，還帶著蜂蜜、杏桃乾、黃桃、及檸檬糖的風味。聞起來有著經典麗斯玲應有的煙硝味，夾雜著茉莉、蘋果花清新怡人的香氣。
其酒體骨幹清瘦，乾淨而俐落。爽脆的酸度是讓這瓶麗斯玲甜而不膩的最主要關鍵。搭配客家鹹豬肉一起吃，鹹鹹甜甜，既不膩口還帶出豬肉的甜香。與客家桔醬的柑橘味搭在一快更是上乘。倆倆相互陪襯，可謂是最佳拍檔、黃金組合啊！
沒有想過客家鹹豬肉也能搭著葡萄酒一同享用吧？是不是很新鮮呢？您不妨也來試一試？
再一次感謝我的好朋友 James， 義氣相挺，二話不說地便接受了我的邀請，來為我們製作這道客家鹹豬肉，還讓我見識到了客家鹹豬肉的新吃法。真的是太感謝James 了。
